July 31, 2009

Bratislava

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View of Bratislava from the Castle - © Gonçalo Figueiredo Augusto, 2009

First one sees some buildings far away. Then the shapes are more defined. Bratislava is 50 km away from Vienna but it’s very different. They just share the Danube. Before Bratislava was part of a very different world from Vienna. It suffered serious damages during the war and then it was swallowed by the socialism. The Iron Courtain started 50 km away from Vienna. After the communism and the Czechoslovak Republic, Bratislava became the capital of new country with a long way ahead. The reforms came, the European Union came and this year the Euro came as well. Bratislava was rebuilt after the war by the socialist regime. The style was the usual one. The socialist kitsh is everywhere side by side with buildings craving for renovation, but yet trying to keep all its dignity. When the 90’s began the socialist was gone. At least apparently. People are not necessarilt different. Petržalka, a neighbourhood standing on the south side of the Danube, was already stocked with socialist blocks. However someone thought it was not enough and new buildings appeared. On the other side of the river they thought the same: the new National Theatre is the major example of bad taste. Fortunately there are less shocking constructions like Apollo Centre, that mixes a very sober architecture with spaces for people.
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Apollo Centre - © Gonçalo Figueiredo Augusto, 2009

One of the major problems in Bratislava seems to be the complete divorce between the city and the Danube. There are lots of projects, there were few international trenders, but the government of the city is always postponing the projects.
The Castle of Bratislava stands in the hill. It witnesses a city trying to renovate itself but that takes the risk of losing its personality. Pavol Országh Hviezdoslav looks to the National Theatre (the old one) on the square named after him. Just a bit to his right, the street is interrupted by a fence. The US Embassy thought it was a very good security mesure. It’s not that bad since they built a wall before. The old synagogue is just a memory. It was destroyed on late 60’s so the new bridge over the Danube (Nový Most or Most Slovenského Národného Povstania – Bridge of the National Slovak Uprising) could be made. However, there is a monument standing on the place where the synagogue existed once… so that everybody could be happy.

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The Presidential Palace - © Gonçalo Figueiredo Augusto, 2009

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Main Square - © Gonçalo Figueiredo Augusto, 2009

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The Danube and Nový Most - © Gonçalo Figueiredo Augusto, 2009

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